Wehlener "Sonnenuhr" Auslese, Mosel
AP Nr. 2 576 511 19 11
David Schildknecht, February 2006:
"A promising batch of Riesling originally intended to be this year’s unique non-auction “gold capsule” bottling ended up finding its way into the 2004 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese A.P. #12. The result is a wine exhibiting great richness of fruit, subtle notes of noble rot, and a combination of gripping flavor intensity with delicacy of touch that has been a hallmark of the better Prum Auslesen for decades. The wine’s intense aromas – still overlaid with considerable primary yeastiness – are of baked and fresh apple, honeysuckle, fresh orange, and vanilla. In the mouth, this is bracing and dripping with fresh fruit, yet subtly-tinged by honey and spice from botrytis. It is audaciously ripe, mouth-coating and golden-berried in fruit character, yet light and delicate to the touch, suggestively creamy and soothing, yet preserving an animating core of fresh fruit acidity. The long finish is similarly rich, honeyed and coating yet bracing and invigorating with its fresh fruit, fruit skin and wet stone elements. As is generally the case with Auslesen from this estate, how long you choose to cellar it will depend in large part on how much of its abundant fructose and overt sweetness you want to taste, but it will certainly mature impressively for more than a quarter century.
"To sin on the side of safety, I have noted the A.P. # for wines I tasted from bottle, but Manfred Prum routinely seeks to assure me that any alternate bottlings will not differ substantially from those I have tasted, and consistent excellence."
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